Monday, October 7, 2013

Free knitted Hobbes pattern

I'm so excited about this!
I've had quite a few knitters ask me
if I could convert my pattern into knitting.
Unfortunately I don't have the skills to do that.

So I was really happy when I received
a message from fellow Ravelry member seesarahknit.
 along with this cute picture of her knitted Hobbes.

 I'll let her tell the rest.
Thank you Sarah for having the skills to
convert it and the kindness to share it.
And here's the link to
Make sure you check out her avatar
 (her adorable cat named Zoe).
And here is the link to
My crochet Hobbbes pattern
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 
When I first saw suki’s adorable Hobbes, I showed it to my husband, who promptly exclaimed that he wanted one! But, there was a problem...I can’t crochet. So, I converted suki’s pattern to make a knitted Hobbes, instead. Below is the supply list, abbreviations, and pattern for all the Hobbes parts.

Please note: If you have questions about knitting the pattern, feel free to contact me on Ravelry @ seesarahknit. If you have questions about assembling Hobbes, or any non-knitting Hobbes related questions, please contact suki on Ravelry @ sukigirl74.

Disclaimer: Please do not sell this pattern or sell items produced by it. See suki’s note on her pattern post.
Disclaimer 2: This has not been test knitted or reviewed by anyone but me. If something doesn’t make sense, give me a holler! If you want to see my knitted Hobbes, go here: http://ravel.me/seesarahknit/mfhp.

Many thanks to suki for her kind permission to write up this pattern, and even more thanks for sharing it on her blog.

Enjoy!
Sarah C.



 Hobbes knitting pattern

 Supplies needed:

Size 6 dpns or circular needles long enough to do magic loop. 
Gauge is not super important...you just want to make sure your stuffing doesn’t show through.
1 skein orange yarn (I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in Terracotta)
1 skein black yarn (I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in Black)
1 skein white yarn (I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in White)
(A note on yarn choice: Any Worsted/Aran weight will do...I used acrylics because they’re durable and wash easily. I used less than 170 yds of each color).
Yarn needle
Stitch marker to mark beginning of rounds
1 piece black felt
Black thread/embroidery floss
Sewing needle
Polyfill stuffing


Abbreviations:
 K= knit
P: purl
St/sts: Stitch(es)
Kfb: Knit through the front and the back of the st
Ssk: slip slip knit
K2tog: Knit 2 sts together
M1l: Make 1 st Left
M1r: make 1 st Right
CO: Cast on
BO: Bind off
St st: stockinette stitch

You should also know how to knit jogless stripes in the round.
  
Head
 In orange, using sz 6 dpns, CO in the round, 
being careful to mark the beg of rnd and not to twist sts.
Row 1: CO 8 sts, join in the round
Row 2: k all
Row 3: kfb 1x on each needle. 12 sts
Row 4:k all
Row 5: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 18 sts
Row 6: k all
Row 7: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 24 sts.
Row 8: k all
Row 9: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 30 sts.
Row 10: K all
Row 11: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 36 sts.
Row 12: k all
Row 13: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 42 sts.
Row 14: K all
Row 15: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd .48 sts.
Rows 16-17: k all.

Now start the stripes on back of head.

Row 18, 19, 20, 21: k16 sts in orange then 32 sts in black (48 st)
Rows 22-24:  work even in orange
Rows 25, 26, 27, 28: k16 sts in orange then 32 sts in black (48 st)
Rows 29-31: work even in orange
Rows 32, 33, 34, 35: k16 sts in orange then 32 sts in black (48 st)
There will be some small holes where you changed colors 
(and this is the only part that will have them.) 
Stitch them together before you stuff the head.

The rest of the head is worked in orange only.
Rows 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43: work even in orange.
Row 44: [k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 42 sts.
Row 45-46: k all
Row 47: [k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 36 sts.
Row 48-50: k all
Row 51: [k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 30 sts
Row 52-54: k all
Row 55: [k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 24 sts.
Row 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61: k all. BO, leave long tail for sewing on head.

 Ears (Make two)
These are just 2 triangles 

In black, using sz 6 dpns, CO in the round, 
being careful to mark the beg of rnd and not to twist sts.

Row 1: CO 4 sts, join in the round
Row 2: k all
Row 3: k1, m1l, k until 1 st remains on needle 1 until 1 st remains on needle 4, m1r, k 1(8 sts).
Row 4: k all
Row 5: k1, m1l, k until 1 st remains on needle 1 until 1 st remains on needle 4, m1r, k 1 (10 sts).
Row 6: k all
Row 7: k1, m1l, k until 1 st remains on needle 1 until 1 st remains on needle 4, m1r, k 1 (12 sts).
Row 8: k all
Row 9: k1, m1l, k until 1 st remains on needle 1 until 1 st remains on needle 4, m1r, k 1 (14 sts).
Rows 10-14: K all. CO, leave enough yarn to sew to head. Stuff ears and hand press them to make them look like ears.


Tail
Start from tip of the tail. Stuff tail as you go.

In black, using sz 6 dpns, CO in the round, 
being careful to mark the beg of rnd and not to twist sts.

Row 1: CO 6 sts, join in the round
Row 2: k all
row 3: Needle 1: k1, kfb, k until 1 st remains on needle, kfb, k1. 
Needle 2: k1, kfb, k until 1 st remains on needle, kfb, k1. 
Needle 3: K all. 
Needle 4: k1, kfb, k until 1 st remains on needle, kfb, k1(12 st)
Row 4: k all
Row 5:  increase 2 sts on Needle 1only. K rest of sts.(14 st)
Row 6:k  all
Rows 7-9: Switch to orange. K even on all 3 rows.
Rows 10-13:Switch to black. K even on all 3 rows.

Repeat Rows 7-13 until you have 13 orange stripes and 13 black stripes.
Then add another stripe of orange (repeat row 7-9 once).

BO, and leave tail long enough to sew tail onto body.

Body:
Starting from bottom up.
In orange, using sz 6 dpns, CO in the round,
being careful to mark the beg of rnd and not to twist sts.

Row 1: CO 8 sts, join in the round
Row 2: k all
Row 3: kfb 1x on each needle. 12 sts
Row 4: k all
Row 5: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 18 sts
Row 6: k all
Row 7: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 24 sts.
Row 8: k all
Row 9: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 30 sts.
Row 10: K all
Row 11: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 36 sts.
Row 12: k all
Row 13: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 42 sts.
Row 14: K all
Row 15: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd . 48 sts.
Rows 16-17: K all even
Rows 18-21: Switch to black. K all even.
Rows 22-25: Switch to orange. K all even
Work rows 18-25 until you have 6 stripes of each color. Then, start decreasing.

Decrease section:
Row 1: Switch to black. [k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 42 sts.
Rows2-4: k all
Row 5: Switch to orange. [k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 36 sts.
Rows 6-8: k all
Row 9: Switch to black. [k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 30 sts
Row 10-12: k all
Row 13: Switch to orange. [k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 24sts.
Rows 14-16: k all

BO, leaving a long enough tail to sew head to body.

Muzzle

Knit flat! Use size 6 needles.

CO 8 sts.
Row 1: k all
Row 2: p all sts
Row 3: k 1, m1L, k (and add 2 more sts evenly) until 1 st remains, m1R, k1. 12 sts.
Row 4: p all sts
Row 5: k 1, m1L, k (and add 4 more sts evenly) until 1 st remains, m1R, k1. 18 sts.
Row 6: p all sts
Row 7: k 1, m1L, k (and add 1 more sts evenly) until 1 st remains, m1R, k1. 21 sts.
Row 8: p all sts
Work in stst for approx. 28 rows. End on p row. (Note: it is a good idea to check how long the muzzle is getting about 18-20 rows in. Once the muzzle is about ½-1” shorter than desired length, start decreasing as indicated below)

Decrease section:
Row 1: k1, ssk, k (and decrease evenly 1 more st) until 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. 18 sts.
Row 2: p all
Row 3: k1, ssk, k (and decrease evenly 4 more sts) until 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
Row 4: p all
Row 5: k1, ssk, k (and decrease evenly 2 more sts) until 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
Row 6: p all

BO, and leave a very long tail to sew muzzle to head. Stuff muzzle lightly as you sew it to head. I would recommend sewing on the nose and mouth before you sew on the muzzle, or at least making sure you haven’t sewn on the entire muzzle/stuffed it fully before adding on the nose and mouth.

Legs (make 2)
 In white, using sz 6 dpns, CO in the round, 
being careful to mark the beg of rnd and not to twist sts.

CO 8 sts, join in round.
Row 1: K all
Row 2: K1, Kfb, k to end of needle one time on each of 4 needles.12 sts.
Row 3: K all
Row 4: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rndK 1 row. 18 sts.
Row 5: k all
Row 6: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 24 sts.
Rows 7-16: Kall even
Rows 17-20: Switch to black. K all even
Row 21-24: Switch to orange. K all even

Repeat rows 17-24 until you have 4 stripes of each color. 
BO, leaving enough orange yarn to sew to body.


Arms (make 2)
In white, using sz 6 dpns, CO in the round, 
being careful to mark the beg of rnd and not to twist sts.

CO 8 sts, join in round.
Row 1: K all
Row 2: K1, Kfb, k to end of needle one time on each of 4 needles. 12 sts.
Row 3: K all
Row 4: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd K 1 row. 18 sts.
Row 5: k all
Row 6: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 24 sts.
Rows 7-16: K all even
Rows 17-20: Switch to black. K all even
Row 21-24: Switch to orange. K all even
Rows 25-26: Switch to black. K all even.BO, leaving a long enough tail to sew arms to body.


Tummy patch:
 Knit flat.

Using size 6 needles, CO 6 sts.
Row 1: k all
Row 2: p all
Row 3: K1 m1L, k to 1 st before end, m1r, k1. 8 sts.
Row 4: P all
Row 5: K1 m1L, k to 1 st before end, m1r, k1. 10 sts.
Row 6: P all
Row 7: K1 m1L, k to 1 st before end, m1r, k1. 12 sts.
Row 8: P all
Row 9: K1 m1L, k to 1 st before end, m1r, k1. 14 sts.
Row 10: P all
Row 11: K1 m1L, k to 1 st before end, m1r, k1. 16 sts.
Row 12: P all

Measure work at this point¾you’ll want to stop knitting evenly when you get that distancefrom your desired height.

Work evenly in st.st until work measures about 1 ½” (or however high your increase section was) from desired height.

Start decreasing:
Row 1: K1, ssk, k to three sts before end, k2tog, k1. 14 sts.
Row 2: P all
Row 3: K1, ssk, k to three sts before end, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
Row 4: P all
Row 5: K1, ssk, k to three sts before end, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
Row 6: P 1 row
Row 7: K1, ssk, k to three sts before end, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
Row 8: P all
Row 9: K1, ssk, k to three sts before end, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
Row 10: P all

BO and leave long enough tail to sew patch onto body. Do not stuff!

After you’re done knitting, sew on the muzzle and tummy patch. Attach ears and limbs and tail. Using the felt, cut out two eyes and two stripes for the top of Hobbes’ head. Pin everything in place before you sew it on to ensure you’re happy with the placement.



3 comments:

RV said...

Does MR stand for Magic Ring? (Sorry, total noob, trying to learn.)

sukigirl said...

Hi RV,
Are you on Ravelry?
If so you should go to
http://www.ravelry.com/people/seesarahknit and ask Sarah that question and any other ones. She converted my original crochet pattern of Hobbes into knitting so I can't answer any knit questions. If you're not I'll relay the question to her.
cheers suki

Sarah said...

Hi, RV! M1R means to increase by one right-leaning stitch. Here's some great videos on how to do these stitches (scroll down a bit and you'll see the links for M1R and M1L, which you'll also need to do this.): http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/increases

Hope that helps!

Sarah/seesarahknit

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